Delights of the sea

Sanlúcar de Barrameda

We'll start the day in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Here, where the waters of the river Guadalquivir come of age and turn into an ocean, we'll start our journey along the crystal clear waters of the province of Cadiz. Sanlúcar has two semi-natural beaches, La Jara and Bonanza, and another two urban ones, Bajo de Guía and La Calzada. The first is notable for the fishing weir (Merlín), declared to be of cultural interest and which can only be seen at low tide. The second one has abandoned bunkers and the ruins of an 18th century bulwark. The third and fourth beaches are the backdrop for the popular Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar (Horse Races of Sanlucar), an equestrian event that attracts tourists from around the world and which you shouldn't miss if you happen to be here in August. 

We're going to have breakfast at El Inesperado, a beach bar on the beach of La Calzada that's open from 09.00. It's a nice place to have a fresh bread roll filled with local ham or manteca colorá ( a type of spread made with lard and spices). Its speciality is skewered and grilled sardines (call +34 690367012 for reservations for lunch and dinner). A bit further up, at La Orilla, they also serve the same delicious dish along with cold tapas, stews, bream fillets... And they celebrate every sunset with 'Cai', a song by a local flamenco singer called Niña Pastori(call +34 665759758 for reservations).This is really cool. And they aren't the only beach bars in the vicinity, there are more: Ramiro 3, Alfonsito... For now, we're stopping off at El Afrikano, on the beach of La Jara, because it's on the way to Chipiona, our next stop. It's famous for its rice dishes (call + 34 658916379 for reservations). 

Chipiona

We've arrived at Chipiona. More than 12 kilometres of beaches with fine white sands. You'll enjoy participating in a guided visit to the fishing weirs. In summer, the tourist office organises them for free (call +34 956 929 065 to reserve a place). Swimming in Chipiona is pretty much like a session of thalassotherapy, because the waters have a high content of iodine and minerals. In fact, the first seaside sanatorium in Spain was built here on Regla beach more than a hundred years ago. The beach also has an impressive view of the Santuario Nuestra Señora de Regla and the highest lighthouse in Spain. You can walk up the 322 steps for 5 euros (+34 956 92 90 65 and [email protected]for reservations. closed until further notice). 

For lunch, we've reserved a table at the Las Tres Piedrasbeach bar (+34 636022655). The menu has an ample selection of dishes based on locally caught fish and shellfish. Their recommendation is a dish called 'Mar de leva', dedicated to theV centenario de la primera Circunnavegación  . Worth a try. Another very nice restaurant on the same beach is restaurante La Manuela, decorated in Mediterranean style but with all the flavours of the Atlantic. We tried their star speciality, 'Arroz prohibido': black rice with fried baby squid and other ingredients that make for a spectacular mixture of flavours (reservations: +34 650386202).Maresía Playais open all year round, it has sun beds and a wide range of dishes and cocktails. At the Montijo beach, the Saam Club de Mar, has a kiddies' entertainment area, some amazing views and a good selection of cocktails (call +34 678463620 to make a reservation).

Rota

Then we'll set off to Rota. The town has four urban beaches (Galeones, Rompidillo, La Costilla and La Ballena) and four natural ones (El Puntalillo, Los Corrales, Punta Candor and Peginas - Aguadulce), each one with its own special magic. The beach of Los Corrales has views of five ancient fishing weirs, which give the beach its name , and there are guided visits that can be reserved at the local tourist office (+34 956846345 or[email protected], Punta Candor has a coastal battery from the last century, and you can enjoy a swim right in the city centre at the beach of La Costilla. The promenade has a summer crafts fair where you can buy souvenirs (Monday to Thursday, 19:00 to 01:30.; Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 15:00 and from 19:00 to 01:30 h) or maybe you'd prefer to indulge your love of reading at the book fair (open every day, from 11:00 to 15:00 and from 19:00 to 24:00).

CWe'll have dinner right there, at thechiringuito Azúcar de Cuba. International cuisine with local products, mojitos and piña colada are their speciality (call +34 956841029 or visit their website to make a reservation).Las Dunas, on the beach of El Puntalillo is another nice place. They have background music and live concerts (call +34 693271147 for reservations). You can find all the restaurants of Rota and what they have to offer in this guide. 

El Puerto de Santa María

We'd be lying to you if we said we didn't already know what you know; that the beast beach and best beach bar is the one you like the most. What we do have in the province of Cadiz is a wide selection of them so you can find what you're looking for. A good example isEl Puerto de Santa María. Looking for a beach with a family atmosphere? Then we're off to La Puntilla or El Aculadero. One with a special charm? La Muralla and La Calita. Do you like marine sports? Then you'll love Fuentebravía, Valdelagrana or Santa Catalina. Something more natural? The Levante beach will melt your heart...  

El Puerto is also outstanding for its delicious gastronomy, with its special emphasis on fish and shellfish dishes. 
There are a lot of beach bars and restaurants. Here are just a few examples. De La Conchais a real classic, on the beach of Santa Catalina. They serve home-made dishes, and the warm friendly atmosphere to be found there is waiting for you with just a phone call (+34 669457693).  Los beach club La Bahía, La Bahía, Las Olas, Demente Puerto and Vistahermosa beach clubs belong to the same firm and have that very fashionable avant garde chic (information and reservations: +34 652880544).  The chiringuito Salvador, beach bar not only serves pescaíto frito, (fried fish) or grilled fish and ice cream shakes that will blow your mind (open all year: call +34 630656658 for reservations), it also has the added attraction of a neighbouring company that rents out boats so you can test the waves (https://www.actibamaraventura.com/actividades/).  El PhiPhi Beach, at La Calita, is ideal for a laid-back night time cocktail or milkshake...                       

Puerto Real

The beach of Río San Pedro in Puerto Realoccupies what once was the mouth of the river Guadalete. Surrounded by a huge pine forest, it forms part of the metropolitan park of Los Toruños – La Algaida. It is legally protected due to its importance in the conservation of birds and marine environments. 

The plan today is to have lunch at the picturesque beach of La Cachucha, bathed by the waters of the Bahía de Cádiz and from where you can see almost the entire natural park, the salt flats and the neighbouring town of San Fernando, the Balneario Beachis more than a typical beach bar, it's a restaurant at the foot of the beach. The food and atmosphere are wonderful, although what we most liked about it was the really friendly staff. 

Cádiz

The beaches ofCádizCadiz are a perfect example of what urban beaches should be. The sand is nothing more than an extension of the space available for local residents. The people of Cadiz don't just go to their beaches to sunbathe and swim, but also to play sport (volleyball, beach football, bat and ball, surfing, windsurfing, etc.) or simply take a walk along the shore to freshen up on a hot summer night. And the beach bars don't just complement what's on offer in the summer, they're an integral part of the traditional gastronomy and leisure of Cadiz. At the beach of Santa María, you can enjoy a good dinner at the Tirabuzón beach bar. The menu includes carefully prepared and presented dishes (call +34 956 23 92 41 for reservations). Some wonderful views also await you at  Mare's restaurant, in a privileged location on the coast of Cadiz. Fish and prawns in garlic are its specialties (call +34 856 021 006 for reservations).

Going to Cadiz and not experiencing a sunset at the beach of La Caleta is like saying you never went there. There are no beach bars here, but bars and restaurants nearby: Bar Club Caleta and Peña Flamenca Juanito Villaroffer en experience with a uniquely local touch.The La Quilla restaurant, will surprise you, not only because of the dishes on offer, but also for its design and decor. 

The Victoria beach is the largest of the urban beaches and also has the most beach bars. They are all very good and possess a long and honourable tradition as part of local life: Malibú, Sotavento, Potito, Tuna Beach, Bebo Los Vientos, Marimba... Any one of these is a good choice.                                            

If you prefer something a bit more natural and further away from the urban hurly burly, then we'll go to the beach of Cortadura. The Nahubeach and El Salao beach bars offer great food and fun until the early hours.  

San Fernando

It's not the most famous place for the public at large but it is loved by the isleños as people from San Fernando are called round here. The beach of La Casería lies within the sack shape made by the Bahía, in an old fishing district, which is an unusual mixture of humble houses, modern terraced residences and blocks of flats. One thing that never changes is the beach and its bars. Eating at La Corchuela or La Cantina del Titi – El Bartolo (closed on Mondays) are experiences not to be missed if you come round here. Don't expect much in the way of sophisticated architectural design. The beauty of these places is that they've maintained their essential maritime spirit. 

 Also worthy of special mention is the beach of Camposoto. Five kilometres of broad natural beach divided into two section. The first one is where all the beach services can be found, including the bars and restaurants. The second can only be reached from the shoreline or the hiking trail of the Punta del Boquerón. Both the beach bar of Antonio and Manito provide a splendid atmosphere, good food and great music.   

Chiclana de la Frontera

The beaches of Sancti Petri and La Barrosa are two of the natural treasures of Chiclana de la Frontera. The first, situated on the banks of an inlet is outstanding for the natural surroundings, opposite the island of Sancti Petri, the mythical castle, and the Punta del Boquerón of the neighbouring town of San Fernando (the other side, as it's called here in Chiclana) and for its location in an old tuna fishing settlement, abandoned and undergoing restoration. Several companies offer nautical sports activities. The Bongo beach bar serves traditional food with fresh local products, along with cocktails and desserts (call+34  670 782 301 to make a reservation). The Apretaíto has more of a Latin American feel, although the dishes are pure and traditional Chiclana fare. 

 La Barrosa is a paradigm in beaches. The services, the fine golden sand, the tranquil waters... Here there are no problems with space and social distancing. The promenade and surrounding area has a multitude of bars and restaurants with a spectacular range of dishes on offer. The beach also has a lost of beachside bars competing to offer the best experience. The Mojama Beach has a select, but at the same time, fun and friendly atmosphere. The name of the bar, which means dried salted tuna fish, gives a clue to the fact that tuna is one of its specialities (reservations: +34 600 700 943). The Coconovo Beach exudes elegance, sophistication and tranquillity. Lying on one of its Bali beds must be one of the most comfortable ways to sunbathe anywhere in Chiclana. An exclusive and elaborate menu, art exhibitions, master classes, sunsets and live music make the experience complete. Reservations: +34 856 830 078. Albatros, Atenas, Vavá, Duna Beach are other beach bars to be discovered and enjoyed in La Barrosa. 

Conil de la Frontera

We're off to Conil. This is one of the towns in Cadiz province with the most kilometres of beach. There are urban ones such as Fuente del Gallo and Los Bateles, semi-natural ones such as La Fontanilla and Cala Puntalejo, and virgin beaches such as the coves of Roche, del Aceite oe Castilnovo. 

At this time of day it's a nice idea to ride on horseback along the trail of the coves at Roche and see the sunset (reservations at Cortijo La Yeguada: +34 608 660 579). The sunset from the Kanguro beach bar in particular is really spectacular. You'll like the sensation of burying you feet in the cool sand as you sample a plate of tuna fish at the Feduchy beach bar. The dishes at the Oasis Playa are abundant. Casa Diego won't let you down either. You can plan your stay at Conil with this app: https://inventrip.com/conil/

ITINERARIO y recorrido

Vejer de la Frontera

At the mid-point of our journey, we're going to spend two days at the coolest, most chic, most glamorous, bohemian and alternative beaches in the province. Urban tribes of all types and colours can be found at the beaches where we plan to stay these two days. 

 We'll start at the beach of El Palmar, the only one in Vejer. But what a beach. What views. What a laid-back atmosphere. 

There are more bars near the beach than there are beach bars. Gran Baba is also famous around here and its prestige is based on high quality live music. Origen Beach Club has a private swimming pool. You'll find a luxurious and rather snobbish atmosphere (reservations only by direct message to their Instagram account). One of the attractions of the Nacarum restaurant is that it's housed in an old tuna fish factory that's been rehabilitated for this purpose.

Barbate

We're sure you've heard of them and you've been dying to get here. Yes. The paradise of tuna is also heaven for beach lovers. Zahora, Los Caños de Meca, Zahara de los Atunes... are all beaches that belong to the town of Barbate. Unique. Originals. Unforgettable. 

 If you could make a cocktail of surf boards, Ibizan dresses, guayabera shirts, dreadlocks, drums and flamenco clapping, the drink would have a flavour more or less like what hits your palate when you set foot on the beaches of Barbate.

 The range of bars and restaurants is almost kaleidoscopic. To give a few examples: the Ketama beach bar has become popular amongst the habitual visitors to Los Caños. Just like La Luna for lovers of Zahara or La Kalima in Zahora. If you prefer more of a family atmosphere, there are restaurants on the promenades of the beaches of Hierbabuena and Nuestra Señora de El Carmen that offer exquisite traditional flavours. 

Tarifa

Blue, crystal clear waters, fine sands, large dune systems, mountains, cliffs, history and beautiful views make the beaches of Tarifa unique places that are almost obligatory to visit if you're in the area. The difficulties in getting to some of them are what enable them to keep their natural charm. 

 The beaches of Los Alemanes, Atlanterra, El Cañuelo, Bolonia, Valdevaqueros, Los Lances and Playa Chica all have their own special attractions, although they all offer the same opportunity to relax and switch off that we're seeking in this trip. And Tarifa is an ideal place for water sports. How about doing some scuba diving under the sea? There's a whole world waiting to be discovered. (Scorpora Tarifa offers introductions to scuba diving, along with courses and organised dives: +34 629 54 61 77)

For lunch, relaxing a while, listening to good music, enjoying amazing sunsets and meeting people from everywhere imaginable, Las Dunas, Los Troncos, Volare, Arte y Vida, Agua, Waikiki and Demente beach bars are a safe bet, and there are more. 

Algeciras

Today we're going to Algeciras. The beaches of Getares, El Rinconcillo, El Chinarral and La Concha are the most famous urban beaches in the city. The views of the Rock of Gibraltar, the Bahia de Algeciras, the commercial port and the rough rocky formations of the local coast will surprise and delight you. The beaches here are for the family, and not very well known by the mass-tourist industry, and have all the charm of places that have maintained that authentic touch. The Tierra y Mar, Botavara, Peña, and other beach bars here are highly recommended.

 If you're here in mid-August, don't miss the marine pilgrimage of the Virgen de La Palma. Divers rescue the image from an underwater cave where it resides all year. Then they carry it in a procession along the beach of El Rinconcillo to an altar where the pilgrims can admire it and pray. When night falls, the Virgen is returned to her underwater home. 

 Algeciras also has the secluded and inaccessible beach in the province: Cala Arena. The beach itself is not a sandy one as its name in Spanish might suggest. It's made up of shells, fragments of stone and pebbles. You should be careful if you visit this beach since rocks can fall from the cliffs and the shore is covered by a huge slab of rock. 

Los Barrios

Palmones is a small beach in Los Barrios, located at the outlet of the river Palmones. Besides the beach, there are wetlands nearby that are specially protected for their ecological importance. It's a wonderful place to go canoeing, paddle surf, walk along the hiking trails. It's also the nerve centre for local gastronomy. You can enjoy delicious food at any of the restaurants to be found on the shores of the Mediterranean. The beach is home to El Garito and Casa Mané (open for lunches and dinners). The website below has more options for dining in Palmones https://turismolosbarrios.com/saborea/palmones/) and this site has a list of hotels: https://turismolosbarrios.com/descansa/

La Línea de La Concepción

La Línea de la Concepción is a young, happy and dynamic place. Its origins as a city go back to the sieges of Gibraltar by Spain to recover the Rock (18th century), although it didn't get its title till the early 20th century. The beaches of La Línea can be divided into two types: to the west of the city, the beach of Poniente has tranquil waters, protected by the Bahía de Algeciras. To the east you have the beaches of Santa Bárbara, Levante, Sobrevela, Torrenueva, Santa Clara and La Alcaidesa follow each other practically without a break in waters open to the Mediterranean from beginning to end. 

Old fortifications and defensive towers are tourist attractions of these beaches, along with the opportunity to do water sports or simply relax and enjoy the sun. Besides the good food, La Luna beach bar on Poniente beach is worth a visit to see the sunsets. Santa Bárbara Beach, Kaleu, El Fuerte and La Rayuela are some of the bars you can enjoy on the beaches in this area. 

San Roque

This town extends from the Bahía de Algeciras, borders all of La Línea de la Concepción and arrives at the edge of the province of Malaga via a number of very distinctive towns and villages: Guadarranque, Puente Mayorga, Campamento are urban family beaches that can be found in the area of La Bahía. La Alcaidesa, Borondo and Cala Sardina are natural beaches bathed by the waters of the Mediterranean whose surroundings are still practically intact. Further on, the beaches of Sotogrande, Puerto de Sotogrande and Torreguadiaro offer bathers exclusive services that match the exclusive residential areas that have grown around them. 

 The website of the municipal tourist office has a list of the beach bars of San Roque: http://www.sanroque.es/turismo/chiringuitos?language=es We also like the atmosphere of Chambao, Cai, Bunker Beach, Bahía Limón... Although you already know what they say, horses for courses... 

 As we said at the beginning, a good beach and beach bar is the one that you like yourself. Try them, choose your favourite one and come back soon...

itinerario y recorrido

Kilometres:  124 Km.
Estimated driving time: 2 hours y 23 minuts.
Recommended number of days: 3
Attractions: Beaches and gastronomy.
See route: Google maps