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It can be a whim or something strictly functional. Setenil de las Bodegas is the second. This white people took advantage of the cavities of the limestone to build a village embedded in the rock. Do not you think this way of saving walls and roof ingenious? Also, free freshness at home all year round! Nobody fails to be touched by Setenil de las Bodegas because it is unique.
We start the day having breakfast in Cuevas del Sol street, one of the most picturesque and that in the morning still preserves its tranquillity before the arrival of the visitors. We give you a good secret: border the Trejo River and cross it for one of its pretty little bridges. Go up to Cantarería Alta street and you will be very close to the viewpoint of the Catholic Monarchs, near the hermitage of San Sebastián. Calmly enjoy the views! Do you see the tower that stands in front of you? That was the citadel that the Christian armies besieged from this same point, hence the name of this viewpoint. (If you can, come in the fall because they organize a party to recreate this historical episode). Now look around the village ... olive trees and more olive trees. Rome left us that heritage and the Andalusians gave it a twist to make the oil authentic liquid gold.
If the walk along the slopes of the town awakens hunger, Cuevas del Sol street, the liveliest, there are many tapas (small cheap dishes) restaurants such as Bar Frasquito, La Tasca or La Escueva. The tables on the terrace are very sought after, attentive! In the street opposite, Cuevas de Sombra, you can also enjoy tapas at a good price.
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Now we propose to follow the route north to the small Alcalá del Valle, snow-white town where, in addition to oil, there is another star product: the asparagus. Here until a fair (the first weekend of April) is celebrated in honour of this vegetable that gives such good results in the Andalusian kitchens.
Stroll through its streets of calm rhythm where everyone greets each other, and the way of life is a tribute to well-understood simplicity. One of the most particular places in the town is the Plaza del Emigrante, with a statue that recalls the many Andalusians who were forced to leave their land during the post-war period. For your part, if you really want to feel blessed for being here, we suggest you eat at one of the best rated restaurants in the province: the Sabor Andaluz tavern. Local cuisine.
The tranquillity of Alcalá del Valle asks you to stay. If you are looking for a special accommodation with attention to detail and with a marked traditional flavour, you will find it in the El Guarda farmhouse and its delicious pool. Another excellent option is the rural hostel La Esperanza, with Moorish decoration and all the comforts at a very competitive price.
If you have already tried a good Andalusian breakfast you will have noticed that here the oil has density and flavour more than intense. Let's find out why here is so special! We will flank the Sierra de Grazalema to the outskirts of Olvera. There you will find the famous Los Remedios agricultural cooperative, where oil is taken as seriously or more than a winery with its wines. Here tastings of various levels are organized, guided visits to the mill to deepen the entire production process and even the olive trees to learn about the harvest. If you are attracted by the plan, contact Dolores Ortega through her website for more details about the visits. If you do not have time, you can buy bottles or carafes in your store to taste oils of another level. The olive oil of the Sierra de Cádiz has Denomination of Origin since 2002.
Steeped in the importance of this product here, it is time to head towards the town of Olvera, whose image has stolen our hearts. The white houses crowded on the hill and, crowning the highest, the church of Our Lady of the Incarnation competing in prominence with the castle of Arab origin. A perfect metaphor of how religion and war went hand in hand in these lands. Without a doubt we recommend you visit the fortress (2 euros / adult), very well restored and with a small interpretation centre to contextualize the monument.
Were you also captivated by the charm of this white town? Then sleep here. A successful option is No 31 Bed & Breakfast, in a beautiful and restored house right in the centre. If on the other hand you are more seduced by a peace retreat, it is worth driving south to the Hacienda El Mirador, with excellent panoramic views, swimming pool and family service. Sleep where you sleep, we wish you deep and intense dreams like unfiltered virgin olive oil.
Estimated driving time: 46 min.
Recommended number of days: 2
Attractions: Culture, gastronomy.
See route in map: Google Maps